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周作人 《北京的茶食》
在东安市场的旧书摊上买到一本日本文章家五十岚力的《我的书翰》，中间说起东京的茶食店的点心都不好吃了，只有几家如上野山下的空也，还做得好点心，吃起来馅和糖及果实浑然融合，在舌头上分不出各自的味来。想起德川时代江户的二百五十年的繁华，当然有这一种享乐的流风余韵留传到今日，虽然比起京都来自然有点不及。北京建都已有五百余年之久，论理于衣食住方面应有多少精微的造就，但实际似乎并不如此，郎以茶食而论，就不曾知道什么特殊的有滋味的东西。固然我们对于北京情形不甚熟悉，只是随便撞进一家悸悸铺里去买一点来吃，但是就撞过的经验来说，总没有很好吃的点心买到过。难道北京竟是没有好的茶食，还是有而我们不知道呢？这也未必全是为贪口腹之欲，总觉得住在古老的京城里吃不到包含历史的精炼的或颓废的点心是一个很大的缺陷。北京的朋友们，能够告诉我两三家做得上好点心的饽饽铺么？
我对于二十世纪的中国货色，有点不大喜欢，粗恶的模仿品，美其名曰国货，要卖得比外国货更贵些。新房子里卖的东西，便不免都有点怀疑，虽然这样说好像遗老的口吻，但总之关于风流享乐的事我是颇迷信传统的。我在西四牌楼以南走过，望着异馥斋的丈许高的独木招牌，不禁神往，因为这不但表示他是义和团以前的老店，那模糊阴暗的字迹又引起我一种焚香静坐的安闲而丰腴的生活的幻想。我不曾焚过什么香，却对于这件事很有趣味，然而终于不敢进香店去，因为怕他们在香盒上已放着花露水与日光皂了。我们于日用必需的东西以外，必须还有一点无用的游戏与享乐，生活才觉得有意思。我们看夕阳，看秋河，看花，听雨，闻香，喝不求解渴的酒，吃不求饱的点心，都是生活上必要的–虽然是无用的装点，而且是愈精炼愈好。可怜现在的中国生活，却是极端地干燥粗鄙，别的不说，我在北京彷惶了十年，终未曾吃到好点心。
作品译文
The Tea Pastries of Peking
From a secondhand book stall in the Dongan Market, I bought a copy of My Books and Writings written by the Japanese writer Igarashi. In it, Igarashi suggested that tea pastries served in the in the pastry shops of Tokyo were no longer very good, with a few notable exceptions such as those found in shops at the foot of Ueno Mountain. There, one could still find such fine delicacies where filling, sugar and nuts blend on the tongue in a unified splendor. It is no wonder that, after the two hundred and fifty years of Edo’s flourishing, during the Kamakura period, there still lingers an aroma of its luscious past, even if it may not measure up to Kyoto. One would expect that Peking, the capital for more than five hundred years, would itself have much to offer by way of achievements in style, taste and accommodations. The reality, however, is seemingly different, a view inspired by tasting the city’s tea pastries. To this day I have yet to taste any pastries worthy of merit. Admittedly, we are not all that familiar with Peking, but whenever I’ve happened to enter a pastry shop for a bite to eat, I have not once managed to buy anything I would consider tasting good. Is it possible that Peking has no delicious pastries to offer, or is it that we just don’t know where they are? My attention to this is not merely a function of my discerning taste; I just feel a great sense of regret if I cannot enjoy a pastry which embodies some historical character—refined or decadent—in this ancient capital. So, my Peking friends, could you direct me to a shop that serves really palatable pastries?
I bear a bit of dislike for so-called twentieth-century Chinese stuff; the goods are labeled soundingly “Make in China” but are actually vulgar imitations more expensive than those from abroad. As for the things being sold in these new-fashioned stores, I cannot help but be a bit leery. Though I may sound old-fashioned, it may seem that I am reacting against wickered tendencies. I must admit that I do have a kind of blind faith in tradition. When walking south of the Xisi triumphal arche, looking up and seeing the wooden, three feet long sign of the Yifu Bakery, I am irresistibly charmed. Not only does the sign mark the shop as predating the Boxer Rebellion, the dimly carved words on the sign also convey a kind of quiet gloom reminiscent of a life of leisure and plenty, of meditation amidst a haze of burning incense. Although I have never done it, I would be interested in burning incense, though I would never dare enter an incense store nowadays for fear that they put bottles of toilet water and bars of soap on their incense boxes. In addition to the daily necessities, I also need a bit of play and pleasure beyond utility. Only with these would life be more fun. I watch the setting sun, the autumn river, the flowers; I listen to the raindrops and smell their fragrance. I drink not for thirst alone but for pleasure, and eat pastries for satisfaction and not mere hunger. All of these are indispensable to life though to some they are just some “useless” decorations. The fancier the better if one were to ask me. It is a pity that life in today’s China has become so extremely dull and vulgar. I won’t get into it more than to say that in ten years of wandering around Peking, I have yet to find satisfaction with any delicious pastries.
